Ya know the way in lots of cultures there’s some type of formal ceremony of passage, the place a younger man or lady undergoes some difficult check and thereby passes into maturity? For us, I would enterprise that that is the clutch job.

And, I am going through it.

It is very early days for the failure development in my bike, however the indicators are there with 34k mi on the clock. So, I am girding up my loins to do some wrenching that’ll enormously enlarge my expertise. Translation: I am wading into deep water, and I do know it.

For a number of weeks now, I have been perusing the boards and YouTube movies, finding out the Clymer, and availing myself of the wealth of data, expertise, and good will that by no means ceases to amaze me. I’ve reached out on to a number of high-profile members or content material creators. I’ve created lists – spreadsheets of instruments, store gear, lubricants, and many others. Now I do know what Staburags is… And I’ve began ordering these items. With a number of multi-day rides nonetheless deliberate this season, I anticipate starting the job in mid-November, combining it with the 36k mi service that’ll be due by then.

In the meantime, I am now getting down to creating buying choices for the components themselves. And right here, I’ve two questions:

(1) Do I order the complete set of clutch alternative components, together with the ‘onerous’ components that will not truly must be changed? Or do I order the ‘minimal’ set of components that may undoubtedly want alternative and wait till I get in there and see what’s what? The choice is difficult by concerns of the challenge’s timeframe. I am pretty sure I will find yourself ordering from one in all two UK-based suppliers – really helpful by a distinguished discussion board member – as a result of the value distinction in comparison with US-based sources is simply ridiculous. Even accounting for the internat’l transport price, seems like I will save nicely over 50% of the components price of $1,332 that my native supplier quoted. (And sure, these suppliers are promoting real OEM BMW clutch components.) That is nice, nevertheless it implies that if I do not go all-in on the up-front components ordering, then tear down the bike and see that sure, the onerous components (e.g., diaphragm spring, stress plate, housing cowl (aka stress ring)) DO must be changed… nicely, then, the 2nd spherical of worldwide ordering will add some weeks to the catastrophe that my storage will develop into.

How have the Elders right here managed this subject? Be secure and order the entire shebang? Or take it one step at a time and save no matter cash you possibly can?

(2) There are alternate options on the market for the clutch (friction) plate itself. I can definitely go together with the OEM (Sachs) alternative. Or, I can attempt to go upscale. Seibenrock (some doubt on the market, apparently, that these are nonetheless obtainable for flying brick engines). Oil resistant? Ceramic, if I wanna go somewhat loopy? One of many two UK suppliers provides a buy-up alternative made by Newfren that is marketed as ‘oil proof.’ Newfren does not appear to be a well-recognized aftermarket choice for BMW bikes, however their web site exhibits a Mannequin F1497 for the K41 variant of the K12GT. It is available in two flavors – clearly totally different type the thumbnail photographs – however with none description of the variations. There’s the ‘Ok’ model and the ‘KW’ model, and it seems just like the UK provider provides the latter.

So… opinions? Is ‘oil proof’ actually an enormous profit – or, is it even an actual factor? Anybody have any expertise with the Newfren friction plate? Is ceramic simply utterly excessive, and are there even any ceramic choices on the market for the Ok-brick single-dry-plate clutch? I’ve learn discussion board feedback like, “the OEM Sachs clutch will go 100k miles, so why trouble with anything?” BUT… nicely, I should be pretty onerous on it, or the earlier proprietor was (had 11.6k mi on the clock after I purchased it in 2019), as a result of 34k mi is pretty younger for a clutch to begin its dying throes. Is not it…??

And a third query: I have been advised that the OEM O-ring is probably going the basis reason behind the leakage/slippage, and that I will undoubtedly wish to exchange it. I’ve additionally learn that the fabric that OEM half was made out of is inferior to Viton, and that it is really helpful to swap in a Viton alternative. Can anybody inform me a make/mannequin and supply for the Viton model?

BTW, I am additionally assuming that I will be changing the rear foremost seal and doubtless the tranny enter and output seals. For these, my ordering choices seem like restricted, with the very best I’ve discovered being Max BMW. Anybody produce other provider suggestions?

What concerning the clutch slave cylinder? Many individuals counsel that this get replaced, too, because you’re deep in there anyway and it will go, ultimately. Ideas….?

And at last… only for grins:

— Dealership quote for the job: $3,423.76. Lower than 10 hrs of labor.

— Recommendation of the lead store mechanic: “Experience it till it explodes.” That means, it isn’t price fixing, so take pleasure in it whereas it lasts.

Thanks,

Corey