The CEO position in a world watch model is usually an ambassadorial one too, particularly when collectors and retail companions are all the time looking for a bit of your time. Very often, these people complain when the highest govt goes too lengthy with out visiting worldwide markets. On this word, it has been far too lengthy since we reconnected with Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué, so when the native public relations arm of the model requested if we needed a few of Pontroué’s time, we jumped on the probability. After all, WOW goes a great distance again with each Panerai and Pontroué.

Within the up to date period of this journal, Panerai had the Summer time challenge cowl from 2013 all the best way to 2017. That is becoming as a result of the Paneristi – the gathering clique most obsessive about the model – are significantly robust in Singapore; in 2020 and 2021, amidst the turmoil of COVID-19, we discovered that the Panerai boutique in ION Orchard had turn out to be the best-performing boutique for the model on the earth (by the model’s personal off-the-record estimation). Given the dimensions of Singapore, this was wonderful to study…little question you, expensive reader, are one in all these hardcore elites since you’ve got made it this far into the story. We in all probability made some hay out of this truth in the previous few years, and it gave us additional impetus to reconnect with the Swiss-Italian watchmaker.

Not for nothing, the opposite cause we relished the chance to satisfy Pontroué in Singapore was that the editors of this journal have recognized him since his days at Montblanc, which he joined on the flip of the millennium. I actually recall him main the press presentation on the model throughout the Salon Worldwide de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in 2008, in all probability. Pontroué was almost definitely Product Technique and Improvement Government Vice President at the moment. No matter his title, he was undoubtedly a key particular person in product technique and growth, having lower his tooth constructing the leather-based items enterprise for Givenchy, an LVMH firm. Many of the present era of editors and writers in all probability acquired to know Pontroué a lot better in his years as CEO of Roger Dubuis, the place he developed the thought of HyperHorology, which at present defines that model. He joined the model in 2011 and shortly turned CEO, which was his position there for six years.

At Panerai, Pontroué succeeded the legendary Angelo Bonati, a person synonymous with the model’s up to date standing. Thus, he had some fairly huge footwear to fill, whereas taking the model into uncharted territory and shaping his personal legacy. To his credit score, Pontroué envisioned a future for Panerai that was distinctly Italian, whereas increasing its core providing past the dive and navy heritage of the model. A key instance of recent challenges for Panerai will be seen in its give attention to materials innovation, being within the vanguard of manufacturers striving to make use of extra recycled metal and titanium. He additionally introduced the thought of tying particular watches with particular experiences, which he pioneered at Roger Dubuis, to Panerai. We talk about this, and Panerai’s extra elegant flip with the Luminor Due with Pontroué on this prolonged dialog.

We didn’t get an opportunity to discuss Watches and Wonders Geneva so let’s start there.

You recognize Watches and Wonders Geneva is among the solely probabilities we’ve got to current ourselves (and what we do) to the world. It’s the equal of couture week (within the numerous vogue capitals) besides that we’ve got just one present. Now that we’re 60 manufacturers (exhibiting at Watches and Wonders Geneva this 12 months), the competitors is getting tougher and tougher so we’ve got to do lots to impress the general public, the journalists, the sellers… the complete watch neighborhood. This is the reason for me it’s a inventive train…earlier than it was extra a promoting train however now that we’re increasingly promoting out of our personal boutiques and retail companions, the Watches and Wonders Geneva present is about making an impression. It’s about speaking. The most important goal of (a significant worldwide watch honest) is capturing consideration, create buzz, generate social media site visitors… we’re not solely right here to promote watches. Possibly 10 years in the past, watches had been the principle attraction…home windows at exhibitor’s cubicles filled with watches. Now, watches are nonetheless necessary however the present is extra about storytelling. That’s the explanation to return to the honest, particularly for the general public.

I used to be very impressed by public attendance over the weekend as a result of we had 3,800 folks in two days. Some simply wish to see the sales space however we had near 1,000 individuals who needed to check the watches. So they might sit down like we’re right here, with one in all our representatives, to strive, to check, to take photos… So it was a really spectacular publicity we’ve got acquired on the weekend, which was new for us.

So completely different from the general public days of the SIHH then?

We had them then? You could have a greater reminiscence than me. It was not very spectacular as a result of I don’t hold any reminiscences of it! This 12 months, it was very effectively organized; we had folks queuing as much as enter our sales space as a result of we had, for safety causes, capability for under 100 individuals who could possibly be inside (at anyone time). So Watches and Wonders Geneva has been a really fruitful train for us when it comes to model staging and site visitors publicity to quite a lot of new communities.

For instance, I found we’ve got a Paneristi neighborhood in Liechtenstein (one of many smallest and richest international locations on the earth – Ed). Are you aware the place Liechtenstein is? At Watches and Wonders, I met the chief of the Paneristi in Liechtenstein, and I didn’t know we even had a neighborhood there! So, watch gala’s are the events to satisfy folks you wouldn’t have met in any other case, and I all the time have been an enormous fan. Having one event a 12 months the place Geneva is the centre level of all of the watch business makes quite a lot of sense, proper? It’s good for Switzerland, good for Geneva, and good for our business.

And but you’ll proceed to indicate new watches all year long, as you’re doing now in Singapore with the Brabus PAM01283…

For us, Watches and Wonders is a platform the place we don’t present every thing. We’ve events to stage new merchandise all 12 months lengthy. After Singapore, I might be in New York for the massive boutique opening there and we’ve got one version just for New York, which we don’t present right here. The identical might be true of Watches and Wonders Shanghai (which could have wrapped by the point you learn this – Ed).

Coming again to the Paneristi, and fan communities normally, how do you have interaction with them on condition that they aren’t a creation of the model?

It’s a excellent query. The Paneristi neighborhood was not created by Panerai, sure. It turned a motion that began within the US three years after the model itself restarted (circa 2000). So even at present, the boss of the Paneristi on the earth is a man I do know very effectively, primarily based in Chicago. I’ve quite a lot of contact with the Paneristi in all of the international locations I go to the place I attempt to meet with them. Not on a regular basis. I all the time say that the Paneristi (or a neighborhood like them) is the largest advertising division a watch model can dream about having proper? As a result of we’ve got 30,000 members who know Panerai higher than any of us on the model.

They’re very loyal to the model; very supportive, and lively in defending the model, and bringing in new members… Generally I meet members who’re very younger folks, not the same old guys who’re my age, however the brand new era, , and that is what I like very a lot. As a result of the son of the Panerista (the informally accepted singular for Paneristi – Ed) can be now a Panerista. In Singapore, we met some younger guys, who got here (to a meet-and-greet with the model) and possibly they stole some watches from their fathers (to put on that night)!

We had, at one in all our Panerai Experiences with (adventurer and conservationist) Mike Horn, a child who was 12. So, the daddy couldn’t come (and thus loaned) his Mike Horn watch (we presume this to be the Submersible Ecopangaea Tourbillon GMT Mike Horn PAM01108, however there are a variety of Mike Horn editions – Ed) to his son, who got here to have the Expertise. So, the assist we get from the Paneristi is totally natural (and occasions such because the Panerai Experiences aren’t Paneristi occasions, as such). The Paneristi are simply right here within the background to assist us but when they don’t like what we do, they are saying it additionally! You recognize that they are often very vocal after they don’t like what we do.

And so the right way to clarify that? It’s cultural… ardour shouldn’t be one thing you’ll be able to clarify. It’s like love. So, I believe it’s the similar dynamic in terms of the love for a model. You could have quite a lot of good causes in terms of Panerai: the historical past, our Italian id, the truth that we’re so spectacular. It creates a belonging spirit, which could be very distinctive to our model. There are manufacturers within the watch business a lot larger than us, although we’re a part of the highest 15 manufacturers. Nonetheless, the sense of loyalty of the individuals who like Panerai is among the highest within the watch business.

Why do you suppose that is?

We’ve by no means studied rationally (about) the why. Possibly it’s as a result of we’re not an enormous model, though we’re not small… Possibly it’s as a result of we’ve got a sure proximity with a lot of our clients, although not all of them. There’s this heat (in our relationship with our clients) which isn’t standardized (or generic); you’ve got nonetheless the impression to be a part of a household. And we do occasions with them…

So, we do 400 buyer occasions per 12 months in our firm, worldwide. I don’t understand how many individuals we see at every one, possibly 100. In order that’s 40,000 a 12 months, in a really intimate manner…(equivalent to on the Singapore Panerai buyer occasion the place) I believe I shook palms with roughly everybody who attended, and it was the identical in Bangkok (the place I used to be earlier than coming to Singapore).

This love for Panerai additionally extends to a few of your extra well-known mates…

You recognize this film known as “Operation Fortune”? Properly the star of that present, Jason Statham, who’s an enormous fan of Panerai, got here to our boutique in London two years in the past, purchased 4 watches and instructed the workers there that he wants these watches for his subsequent film. We had no thought it was Operation Fortune, and also you see the watches within the film offered very properly. We by no means did something, we by no means paid Jason Statham…I used to be not even capable of thank him. We don’t even have his e-mail handle due to course he doesn’t give his e-mail handle when he’s at our boutiques. Even via his agent, it is extremely sophisticated however it tells you one thing {that a} man like that, who represents very a lot what Panerai stands for – very athletic, very sporty – placing his personal watches into his motion pictures. That is what I name the delicate energy of the model.

Mr Statham is a longtime Panerai collector! However what about one thing new that maybe you’ve got by no means seen earlier than? 

The phenomena which is new for me is extra in direction of girls watches and girls shopping for our watches…that is new clientele we’ve got. We didn’t have so many merchandise earlier than that had been appropriate (measurement smart) however now we’ve got the 38mm assortment, just like the Luminor Due for instance. We even have small problems just like the moon part. We’ve the straps from Prada, we’ve got some new pastel dial colors. For the primary time, within the boutique in New York, we’ve got a devoted space for girls.

This text was first printed on WOW Autumn Situation #70

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